Fabric Manufacturing:
Fabric:
A manufactured assembly of yarns that has substantial surface area in relation to its thickness and sufficient cohesion to give the assembly useful mechanical strength, N.B. Fabric means cloth.
Warp:
A number of thread in long length and approximately parallel in various forms intended for weaving, knitting, doubling, sizing, dyeing and lace making. N.B. Threads lying length wise parallel to the selvedges.
Weft:
A number of threads/yarn lying cross-wise at right angles to the warp threads
Weave: The pattern of interlacing of warp and weft in woven fabric
Ends: Individual warp threads/yarn
Picks: Individual weft threads
Interlacement: Binding
Shuttle: Pirn container
Pirn: Weft container
Loom: Frame on which a cloth is woven
Winding:
Cone Winder: A m/c used for transferring yarn from of one package to another
Beam Warping: Winding a part of the total number of ends of a warp in full width on to a back beam.
Direct Warping: The transference of yarn from a package creel directly on to a beam.
Sizing: The process by which a gelatinous film forming substance in solution or dispersion, applied normally to warps, generally before weaving to protect the yarns from abrasion in the healds and reed and against each other, to strengthen them and by addition of starch, oils and fats to lubricate them. Sizing is used for softening, antiseptic for insects, mildew, breakage, weight, and coloring matters.
Knitting:
The second most frequently used method of construction. Knitting is a process of fabric forming by the intermeshing of loop of yarns when one loop is drawn through another, loop stitch is formed. Stitches may be formed in horizontal or vertical direction.
Types of knitting:
Weft knitting:
The process of knitting by which single or more than one weft yarn form courses across the fabric is called weft knitting.
Warp knitting:
The process of knitting by which a series of yarns form wales in the length wise direction of the fabric is called warp knitting.
Course: The loops which are run along the fabric width is called course.
Wales: The loop which run across the length of the fabric.
Needle:
The needle is the principle element of knitting m/c, it is a metal thin plate & helps to loop formation.
Type of Needle:
i. Latch needle
ii. Bearded needle
iii. Compound needle
Sinker:
The sinker is the second primary elements; it is thin metal plate which acts individually or collectively approximately right angles from the hook side between adjacent needles.
Activities of Sinker:
i. Loop formation
ii. Holding down
iii. Knocking over
Wet Processing:
Singeing:
Grey cloths from looms contain loose fibers, neps etc. on its surface and to remove those in a flame or by infra-red radiation or by burning against a hot plate. The operation is usually performed as a preliminary to scouring and bleaching.
Singeing is of 3 kinds:
1. Plate singeing
2. Roller singeing
3. Gas singeing
Desizing: To remove the size materials from the fabric is called desizing
Scouring:
The treatment of textile fabric or yarn in order to removal of natural fats, waxes & proteins etc. as well as dirty oil & other impurities.
Bleaching:
Removal of grey color from the fabric and improving the whiteness of textile materials is called bleaching.
Stentering:
The width of cloth is generally contracted to some extent during bleaching, dyeing etc. The m/c used to regain the lost-width is called stenter & operation is called stentering.
Mercerizing:
The treatment by which the soaking fabric into caustic soda to give a shine to it so, strength and dye affinity of the materials are increased.
Dyeing:
The application and fixing of a dye to a substrate, normally with the intention of obtaining an even distribution throughout the substrate
Printing:
One form of applying color decoration to a fabric after it has otherwise been finished is called printing.
Calendaring:
Ironing of fabric is big factories in called calendaring. By calendaring the threads are flattened and their intersection is filled up. More over it gives unexpected beautiful out look into the products with luster and feeling.
Garments Manufacturing:
Sample: The garment which is need for bulk production is called sample.
Approved sample:
According to all the required specification the sample which is approved by buyer is called approved sample.
Counter sample:
The sample which is followed by approved sample is called counter sample.
Pattern:
It is hard paper design which is made by following each individual component for a style of garments.
Working pattern:
It is a pattern of a particular style with net dimension.
Production pattern=Working pattern + Allowance
Production pattern:
To make pattern for a particular style with net dimension along with allowances
Basic block:
Assimilating of diagram of net dimension on papers each and individual part without any allowance which is called pattern and this is called basic block.
Interlining:
Interlining is one kind of accessories which is used between two layers of fabric in garments to support, re-enforce and control area of garments and to retain actual shape. It may be applied on base fabric by sewing and bonding.
Lining:
A generic term for fabric used to cover inner surfaces of products, especially the inner face employs different material from the outer surface.
Seam:
The join between two or more pieces of materials, seams are generally formed by sewing, welding, adhesives etc.
Stitch: Stitch is the unit formed by sewing thread from a sewing machine.
C.M. (Cost of Making Order):
Buyer will provide all the fabric and accessories, manufacturer have to make only garments and he will get charges of making only.
C.M.T. (Cost of Making with Trimmings):
Manufacturer have to manage all accessories items, he will get charge of trimmings and making.
Accessories or Trimmings:
Without fabric all are accessories. It includes: thread, button, interlining, zipper, main label, care label, tissue paper & ball head pin so on.
Category:
Category is a number which indicates what type of fabric is used for making the particular garments and it also indicates the type of this garment.
Generally, it is of three digits.
First digit indicates fabric type (such as cotton, polyester). Last two digits indicates type of garments (such as shirt, pant).
Quota:
It is an agreement between governments of the importer country and the exporter country. In details it is the amount of garment goods which are allowed to be exported by the manufacturing country to the importing country.
C & F:
Clearing related with importer and forwarding related with exporter. If the price of the goods is mentioned in invoice including transport cost then it is called C & F.
C.I.F:
If the price of the goods is mentioned in invoice including transport cost and insurance cost then it is called C.I.F.
F.O.B:
If the price of the goods is mentioned in invoice without transport cost then it is called F.O.B.
Invoice:
After sending the garments goods to the importer country, the documents mentioning the price is sent to the buyer for collecting is called invoice.
L/C:
Letter of credit, It is commitment by an opening bank on behalf of the importer in favor of the exporter that the bills drawn by them on the importer countries covering the shipment of specified items and quality of goods within stated period will be paid in exchange of documents under certain items and condition.
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